Tuesday, 31 January 2017

Foodie's Gothenburg - street food and Michelin-stars

Street food and seafood, cafés and pubs, husmanskost and gourmet - Gothenburg has something for everyone!


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Gothenburg is such a treat for a foodie traveller - even British papers has been raving about this city as a serious up-and-coming foodie destination. 







Kungsportsavenyn (known by the locals as just Avenyn) is a lively hotspot for nightlife and full of restaurants, where at weekends you won't get in without queues. My first rule for navigating this city though is this: avoid Avenyn. 

Avoid it like a plague. 



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg


As can be expected, the restaurants here have mostly made their name on their central location. One of them is Brasserie Lipp, where we found ourself brunching thanks to a misguided recommendation. 

The best thing about the experience was a box of crayons (located at every table), that the guests can keep themselves entertained with (drawing on the table cloth?) as they keep waiting for the order that the staff has forgotten... again. 



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg


Instead of Avenyn you should head over to Tredje Långgatan or Magasingatan - both vibrant restaurant streets.

One thing worth remembering is that more and more restaurants in Gothenburg now operate on cash-free basis meaning you can only pay with cards, so do check this separately with each establishment. 



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg


From the market and to a picnic


On a beautiful summer's day, skip the restaurants altogether. Instead make your way to the Kungstorgsplats Market hall, pick up all your favourites and head over to  Slottskogen Gothenburg's huge park to enjoy your feast.

You'll find a tour of all of the Gothenburg's market halls (and all my favourite vendors!) on the blog over here.



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_kauppahallit


Fika - coffee and cakes for everybody


Gothenburgers love their coffee breaks - the city is known as the fika capital of Sweden for a reason. 

They're particularly fond of their cinnamon buns. The ones at Cafe Husaren are widely considered if not the best then at least the biggest.

Don't go alone though as there's no way you'll be able to finish the whole thing by yourself!



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Cafe Husaren


While I do like Husaren, too, it's Cafe Kringlan's cakes, generous stuffed sandwiches and cosy ambiance that has a special hold of my heart.



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Cafe Kringlan
Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Cafe Kringlan


Haga, where both of these places are located, is known for its abundance of adorable cafés and decidely hipsterish vibe. Telegraph has actually named it as one of the most hipster neighbourhoods in the whole world. 

Gothenburger's love of coffee and cake ensures that there's no shortage of cafés elsewhere in the city, either. Another one of my favourites, Le Pain Francais, is a café and patisserie the atmosphere of which immediately transports one to Paris. Several locations across the city (ok, admittedly one of them is on the Avenyn...).




Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Le Pain Francais


Street food and seafood


Another things Gothenburgers can't get enough of is seafood. Räksallad (shrimp mayo) is something they put in just about everything - including their eponymous burger Göteborgare.

For more information on food trucks in Gothenburg, just see here


Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_katuryoka_göteborgare


A great place for going overboard is Restaurant Kajutan, located in Feskekôrka, a market hall dedicated to fish and seafood. 


Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Feskekorkan_Kajutan


Go all Scandinavian and feast on their herring platter, featuring 4 different kind of herrings accompanied by the usual suspects (€16)...



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Feskekorkan_Kajutan_sillilautanen


...or go all out and order one of their three seafood platters (prices start €60). They also stock locally sourced oysters!



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Feskekorkan_Kajutan_äyriäisvati


And while at it, you should definitely make some time for Heaven 23's legendary King Size Deluxe shrimp sandwich - more on this magnificent monstrosity on the blog over here.


Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Heaven 23_katkarapuleipä


Husmankost- home cooking at its best


Husmanskost is an culinary institution loved by Swedes everywhere. The name refers to home-cooked classics (think meatballs and mash), just like the ones mamma used to make, and is so popular that practically all the restaurants feature at least one husmanskost option on their menus. 

You can't really go wrong with this -I don't think I've ever had bad experience. 

One good (and cheap) place for this is Ölstugan, where the menu changes weekly and all the dishes only cost about €10. With 7 locations around Gothenburg, they're worth thumbs up for their beer selection as well. 



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_husmanskost


Smaka, located on Vasagatan, is another firm favourite of mine, which serves well-prepared husmanskost in slightly trendier atmosphere. Reservation highly recommended.



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_husmanskost_Smaka


Menu changes often and is such a delight. In addition to classics such as those meatballs and wallenbergare, it has some surprises in store too: how about some oysters to start with? Mains €16-€20.



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_husmanskost_Smaka


After work - the best reason to work


Gothenburg boasts a vibrant restaurant scene which has managed to sell itself to the public, too. During the day people gather for reasonably priced lunches, weekends are reserved for leisurely brunches and early evenings (especially Fridays!) many places feature very attractively priced after work-specials. 



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_afterwork


Gourmand's Gotheburg


As a culinry destination Gothenburg is more than equipped to take on its arch rival Stockholm. They have for instance 7 one-Michelin-starred restaurants, which is the same as capital Stockholm, more than twice the size.

So, even hard-core gourmands are in good hands here.

One of our first stops was located (ever so conveniently) literally just around the corner from our hotel. Somm Restaurant & Wine Bar, proud holder of Bib Gourmand, wonderfully attentive service and lovely ambiance: just the right amount of intimacy and not-too-polished.



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Somm


... then there are all the interesting wines...


Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Somm


... and food, equally interesting and vivacious. 

In addition to the compact menu (starters, mains and desserts feature 3 choices each) there are reasonably priced tasting menus (either 3, 5 or 8 courses) which offer serious value for money (€45/ €66/ €87). 


Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Somm
Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Somm


In case you fancy sampling Michelin-standard food but aren't quite that hungry, my recommendation is kicking the evening off in the wine bar at 28+ (small dishes on the wine bar menu range from €5 to €15).



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Somm



Another tip for Michelin feast on a smaller budget is lunch at Sjömagasinet, quite possibly the most legendary restaurant in the whole of Gothenburg. 

3-course fixed lunch costs €63 (there is a menu as well, with starters around €20 and mains for €20-€40), but you want to secure a table well in advance as without one getting here is hopeless. 

(For the sake of comparison: at dinner 4-course tasting menu costs €95.)



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Somm


An excellent choice for a Michelin tourist is SK Mat & Människor, ranked by White Guide Nordic as #5 restaurant in the city. 

You'll find full report of our tragicomic dinner there on the blog over here.



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_SK Mat och Människor
Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_SK Mat och Människor


Gothenburg for beer lovers


Out of Långgatans Andra Långgatan is a busy bar street, which especially during weekends fills to the brim with revellers. Selection ranges from pseudo-English pubs to pseudo-French wine bars.

One of the best addresses for a beer aficionado is Haket Pub on Första Långgatan. While the atmpshere is.... well, down to earth, the 350+ beer selection is guaranteed to satisfy even the fussiest of drinkers. 



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Andra Långgatan


Kungstorgets Brygghus is a good address for those looking for a watering hole in the city centre. Right next to Kungstorget's market hall it features an interesting selection of Swedish craft beers.

One of my favourites is Tail of a Whale, a pale wheat ale from Stockholm's Brutal Brewing. 



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Kungstorgets Brygghus


Viktoriagatan is home to lots more pubs. Prices here are slightly lower than in the immediate city centre, which is why the area, much like Andra Långgatan, attracts so many students from the nearby university.

My favourite here is atmospheric Noba, where you can sample their selection for instance with 0,5-metre-long tasting board. Or the full metre-long, should you be feeling particularly adventurous. Being a lover of wheat beers myself, I was particularly smitten with Belgian-style Wit from Poppels Brewery in Jonsered.

The place specializes in Nordic beers, so there's a nice selection of brews from other Nordic countries, too.



Andalusian auringossa_kulinaristin Göteborg_Noba


How have you liked your tour of Gothenburg so far? What kind of food would be most up your street?


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Below you'll find the rest of the stops in this West Coast genm:

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ANYONE FOR SECONDS?


Andalusian auringossa_Göteborg_SK Mat och Människor      



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